We had a week-long stopover in Memphis, TN from March 28-April 3rd as we made our way northeast to Kentucky. I had only ever driven through Memphis and it never left a good taste in my mouth. I remember being appalled when I first found out how much it costs to visit Graceland. I decided to visit in my imagination instead.
But our week stay this spring erased the bad taste in my mouth, replacing it with craft cocktails and amazing fried chicken. Apart from the foodie pleasures, the historical worth of the city of Memphis is heavy. I’m glad we had a chance to appreciate it.
Without further adieu (and because I’m almost two months behind), behold! 8 of our best memories of Memphis, TN.
#1 South of Beale
Popcorn with brunch? Yes, please!If it’s time for Sunday brunch in Memphis, I highly recommended South of Beale. Online reviews convinced us to try it, and we weren’t disappointed.
We found free street parking and stepped inside the modern, clean interior. As soon as we were seated, a bowl of housemade kettle corn came out to us. What a memorable treat!
For our meals, I had a phenomenal grilled salmon salad that was seriously one of the best salads I’ve ever had. Eric had a burger he enjoyed (I think he wished he had ordered the salad!). I also had a craft cocktail – there were many creative and affordable choices.
Grilled Salmon Salad at South of Beale – crazah good
Eric’s burger at South of BealeWe were within walking distance of our next stop, the National Civil Rights Museum, which is open from 12-5 PM on Sundays.
#2 National Civil Rights Museum
Lorraine Motel in MemphisThe National Civil Rights Museum is co-located with the Lorraine Motel, where Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated in 1968. From the towering sculpture in the atrium to the last moments in front of MLK’s hotel room, the museum is incredibly well done. A $27.5 million renovation was just last year, making this the most modern museum I’ve visited recently. Multimedia displays such as wall-sized touch screens and dozens of audio interviews bring the civil rights topics alive and plant places, faces and names in visitors’ memories.
The site of MLK’s assassination in Memphis
Michael Pavlovsky’s “Movement to Overcome,” 14 feet high, 21 feet wide and 6 feet deepWe spent three hours at the museum and could’ve been there longer. Without a doubt, this stop belongs on any Memphis itinerary.
Remembering Rosa Parks and those who sat with her
#3 Beale Street
Beale StreetNo trip to Memphis would be complete without a stroll down Beale Street. We walked by at least four venues playing live music and stopped to browse at a record store. I can’t say it quite compared to the extent and/or vibe of New Orleans or Austin. To me, it felt overly commercialized/touristy. But maybe I missed the back alley spot where all the locals go!
#4 The Terrace at River Inn
River Inn with The Terrace on the top floor, overlooking the Mighty Mississippi
Juniper Fusion cocktail at The TerraceI have this thing for the Mississippi River. It sings to me a refrain of the American spirit, of natural strength, of discovery and trade, of Mark Twain stories, and of the way my high school English teacher would always say that places and geographical elements could be characters in a story. Every time I cross it, I sing “Old Man River” at the top of my lungs.
So when I found out about a rooftop bar in Memphis that offered the best view of the Mississippi in the whole city, I was so there. Located in charming Harbortown on the top of River Inn, The Terrace was everything I hoped for.
The sun flooded the open air patio while the river sparkled its finest before the fall of dusk. I ordered the Juniper Fusion (Hendricks, homemade citrus agave blend, dash of orange Bitters, muddled cucumbers and strawberries) off the extensive cocktail menu and enjoyed my husband’s company.
My love in the sunlight
Didn’t I say this place had an amazing view?As we stepped out of the elevator downstairs, piano music flooded the room. We sat and listed to Laura, an 80s-something musician whose fingers were never so alive. She was precious and played that “Old Man River” for me, following it up with a brilliant version of Joplin’s “The Entertainer.”
Laura also plays at the Peabody – I believe she said Monday and Saturday evenings.
Talented and beautiful Laura, who inspired me to finally get a keyboard for the RV
#5 Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken
The original Gus’sNow found all over the country, Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken began in a modest, one-room building in downtown Memphis. We skipped the sides and saved all our room for that delicious chicken. We recommend the breast pieces with the fabulous sweet tea. Pecan pie a la mode was recommended, but disappointingly they were out of ice cream when we visited.
Doing my part to keep Gus’s fried chicken world famousI would be lying if I said I hadn’t thought of Gus’s many times since we were in Memphis!
Packed dining room at Gus’s#6 Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous
Enter Charlie Vergos’ from the alley and be ready to wait!
Dry rub ribs at Charlie Vergos’ RendezvousAmong the many hyped and recommended spots in Memphis that we tried, Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous was the biggest disappointment. We tried the ribs and they were good, but we’ve had better for the price. I was tremendously bummed by the pulled pork nachos, after having crazy fabulous, fantasy-worthy pulled pork nachos at The Raleigh Times. Charlie Vergos’ nachos were composed of (what seemed like) grocery store bought round corn tortilla chips and Velveeta. Eesh!
My face before the food arrived
I’ll pass on the pulled pork nachosI guess we’re just spoiled by Texas BBQ. But people love this place, so you may not want to take our word for it. Try for yourself!
I guess people really like this place#7 The Peabody
Finger snacks and key lime pie against the duck fountain – appetizing?We had to make our way to the iconic Peabody Hotel. We relaxed at a table right next to the duck fountain and I tried a cocktail I would order again and a dessert that I wouldn’t. We were a little late for the ducks (they go home at 5 PM), so we made our way upstairs to the Skyway. The rooftop offered a beautiful view of the city (there’s a rooftop bar as well), and we peeked around the corner to see the Duck Palace.
We stopped to reflect on the blessings of our travels
On the rooftop of The Peabody with the Duck Palace located behind this event spaceDuck inside a high-end hotel in the middle of a city…so much fun.
#8 Dyer’s
Dining room at Dyer’s
Dyer’s on BealeOne of Eric’s Memphis must-tastes was Dyer’s on Beale. This place has been around since 1912. With diner decor and simple burgers that comfort the palate, the only downer was the sudden cold front that brought the Arctic tundra in every time someone opened the door. (Winter stayed around an awfully long time this year, yes?)
Eric had the triple and wants me to add that it was the “bomb diggity.” From a guy who loves burgers, that’s quite a generous review.
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What say you? What are your favorite stops in Memphis and your most cherished memories of time spent there? I’d love to know. It’s never too early to plan the next trip!
-B
We have been to Memphis several times in our journey across america. My favorite highlights of Memphis are:
Peabody Ducks – This is one of the most unique and fun things we have experienced across america. It’s important to see the whole show. I loved it as an adult but I am disappointed that we did not bring our children to see it when they were young (of course we did not know about it and live a 1000 miles away).
Stax Records – We spent hours there and loved it.
Graceland – I don’t remember what it cost but my wife was determined to go. I was very surprised how much I liked it. This is a slice of america from when I was a teenager. I doubt that a younger person that had not lived in this era would find it so entertaining. I am not a huge Elvis fan but it was the image of living in that era of america that I enjoyed so much.
Beale Street – I like music cities and this is one. It can’t hold a candle to places like New Orleans, Nashville or Austin but it was a good music city. Its the little things that make the music more alive. When we ate at the Rendezvous (Very good but a little over rated) one of the waiters (80 plus gentleman) helped me pick out music on the Jukebox. He was a very cool old dude that had written a couple of the songs that were on the juke box. What a great memory of talking to him on this chance encounter.
I would recommend if you were EVER remotely interested in going to Graceland, that you do so. I enjoyed an Elvis movie and song here and there. My husband wanted to take me because he had taken his daughters there on a vacation. It was SO MUCH more and better than I had ever imagined it could be. We did the extra stuff to and somehow it just connected with me. Go early so you have plenty of time and don’t have to wait in line so long. And if for any of your readers, they really don’t have the money to go to Graceland (I agree tickets are outrageous but so is Branson, Dollywood, DISNEY!!!) I don’t remember if it was 7 or 8 am but they open the grounds for free so you can go into the graves. Also stop and read the rock fence. You get a little of the feeling of the place.
There is also a very nice tourist center that answers questions, has maps, etc, down where you can park and walk across to Mudd Island. Statutes of B.B. King and Elvis separately if you want to take a vacations souvenir picture.